Sew Committed: Sewing Goals for 2017!

2016 was a slow year on the blog.  I had some great sewing projects during the year, but it didn't feel like enough sewing time.  I'm looking forward to sewing more in 2017.  Here are my sewing goals for the year.

1.  Focus on upcycling.  I continue to be excited by reusing textiles from cast off clothing and homegoods.  I like a look that smoothly incorporates castoffs so that the finished product does not look too disjointed or over-planned.

2.  Lagenlook.  Let's face facts - I'm over 50 and I've been reading a few articles lately about styles that should be retired from my wardrobe.  Also, at the New Year's gala I attended, I couldn't help but notice a striking, slim woman wearing a lovely teal strapless evening gown.  She was probably in her 60s.  Though the dress fit nicely, it looked as though her back and shoulders were melting over the bodice of her gown.  Her skin was too slack to rock the strapless look.  Because of this experience, as well as my recent reading, I'm always on the lookout for designs that will flatter an aging figure.  The term lagenlook comes from German and means "layered look".  It can be done sleek and businesslike or ruffly and boho.  I've been interested for a while in adding more of these pieces to my closet.

3.  Vintage!  Vintage looks are always inspiring,  I love to "play dress-up", but I also look for vintage patterns that can be worn for everyday use.  Edwardian fashion, the jazz age and mod 60s looks are all of interest to me now.

4.  Perfecting techniques.  Another goal for this year's sewing is to work on perfecting some of the techniques I've used before to make sewing even more enjoyable.  Rolled hems, blind hems, lightweight fabrics, knits, hand stitched buttonholes and flawless zippers are easily called to mind examples.

I look forward to sharing my progress toward these goals with you!  As always, please feel free to add a comment with ideas about anything you might like to see me do this year.  Thanks, and happy sewing!

Tunic from Upcycled Tablecloth

I would love to spend more time sewing.  I have so many plans rattling around in my head for projects, and have collected so many patterns I want to use.  I had a few spare hours the other day, so I put them to good use in the sewing studio.

Another of my loves beyond straight sewing is the upcycling of the vintage linens I collect during my thrift shopping adventures.  I came across this beautiful jacquard tablecloth, with an intricately woven floral pattern, some time back.  I loved the ivory color and the drape of the fabric.  My plan had been to turn it into a tunic top. 

I used a pin from my Pinterest board, Sew Inspired, as my inspiration.  It’s a picture of a cutting layout for a tunic top.  The only measurement I used was my bust measurement, to which I added 2 inches for ease.  I used a bateau neckline and self drafted a facing from a linen table scarf (or altar cloth?).  I elected not to embellish the resulting top because I felt that the pattern woven into the fabric was such a beautiful and subtle statement that I did not want to overwhelm it with trim.

Here is the resulting top.  I am really looking forward to wearing it soon.  I think it could be dressed up or down depending on the occasion and the accessories.

Thanks for looking!

More Downton Designing

Another new year for the blog!  I sometimes find it hard to believe I’ve been at this for so long.  I love producing this blog, even if it is only a sporadic thing due to my many other commitments.  Thanks for stopping in when you get a chance to see what I write, when I get a chance!

This year Downton Abbey comes to a close on Masterpiece.  Our local PBS affiliate is having a gala to celebrate the show and some friends are going to the gala with us.  I have been working on my friend’s gown for a very long time.  Chiffon fabric and hand beading make for quite a project, but I think she’ll look lovely.  Almost done with the beading and final touches. 
Now I have to figure out what to wear myself.  I love the illustration here:

I purchased the instructions, but find that the instructions are for the generic dress of the period, not specifically for this illustration.  Can I figure it out?  Yes.  Did I want to be futzing around? No.  I’m only out $7.50, but I guess I didn’t need to spend it, as I could have figured it out from the picture independently.

The body of the dress will be black slipper satin.  Here are pictures of the lace and trim. 

I also purchased opera gloves, an antique clutch and period-ish shoes… I will still need a headpiece and a coat or cloak.  This soiree is in March.  In the Northeast.  Outerwear required.  Unless we dress at the hotel, which I guess is a possibility.  I’m very excited about making this gown, and even more excited about wearing it!  Stay tuned for each step of the way, along with pictures from the gala.  Did I mention that I’m excited?

Downton Dress V and One Hour Dress

Getting very near to completion on the Downton Dress.  Progress has been somewhat impeded by my new (but terrific) job.  Here are some pictures of the embellishments so far.  I don't want to add anything else until my friend tries it on and we get those beautiful bakelite clasps on.

 So, now completely enamored with 1920s style, I decided to give the famous "One Hour Dress" a try.  The instructions are pretty ubiquitously available online. This is a Mary Brooks Pickens design created as "a smart, up-to-the-minute dress" which could be cut out, sewn and be ready to wear within an hour!  Now, let's be real.  For the seamstress of that era, who knew exactly what she wanted to accomplish, this may have been possible.  However, I can say without a doubt, I've spent more than an hour so far.  I made my dress from a recycled bedspread.

This was a fussy, dry clean only bedspread my mom had been using just a few years ago.  I cut the dress per the measurements and instructions of Ms. Pickens.  I added a little pleat detail at the left hip.

It is coming out very nicely.  I just have to decide how to finish the sleeves and I will be done!  I admit that I took advantage of hems already placed for the bedspread.  Unfortunately, there is some sun fading on the fabric, so I will probably consider this one a wearable muslin and make more.  It was incredibly easy and fun!

A cloche hat and some period correct shoes and I'll be all set!  Have you tried the "One Hour Dress"? Please let me know about your results in the comments!

I've Got a Notion - Hand Sewing Needles

I love estate sales, yard sales and rummage sales (if you've ever read this blog before, you know this). One of the things I buy frequently at these sales is sewing baskets. Sadly, a sewist passes on, and her family has no earthly clue what to do with her things. Often, whole sewing baskets can be found in these sales, fully stocked with all sorts of great tools and notions, left just the way the owner left it.

I've acquired neatly organized baskets, and ones that look as though the grandkids just pawed through it looking for only they know what. All have their charms and treasures within. One of the things I come across most frequently and abundantly are hand sewing needles.

I will never have to purchase another hand sewing needle at a conventional modern sewing store. I have hundreds (maybe thousands) of these gems. Some will remain in their wrappers unused, and others will be used in my work. Some will be passed on to others via Etsy.

Hand sewing needles come in greater variety than the uninitiated would think. Each needle is crafted for a particular purpose. The most common is the “sharp”, used for general hand work, with a round eye, a sharp point and a medium length. Applique and crewel needles are used in embroidery and surface design. Tapestry needles are used for needlepoint and other canvas work. Betweens are hand quilting needles. Milliners needles and beading needles are very long and are usually used for decorative work. Darning needles are long with blunt points and used in fabric repair and reweaving.

And, of course there are specialty needles for upholstery and leather work.

Each needle type comes in a variety of sizes. The size is indicated by one or more numbers on the manufacturer's packaging. The general convention for sizing of needles, as with wire gauge, is that within any given class of needle the length and thickness of a needle increases as the size number decreases. When a package contains a needle count followed by two size numbers such as "20 Sharps 5/10" the second set of numbers correspond to the range of sizes of needle within the packet, in this case typically ten sharps needles of size 5 and ten of size 10 (for a total of 20 needles).

The packaging of needles is also fascinating, from ornate needle books, to advertising premiums. Some of the packages feature great artwork, which seems so grandiose when you consider that the contents are but humble sewing needles.   

I've been doing quite a lot of hand sewing lately for the Downton Dress.  Between that and my estate sale habit, I have developed a new appreciation for the hand sewing needle!

That Downton Dress-II

One challenge with a vintage pattern is a scarcity of directions - even when the pattern is a repro, Much was assumed about the skill of the seamstress.  This dress has many handkerchief leaves in its hem, with no direction as to how to finish them.  A couture dress is distinguished by the hand sewing that goes into its production, so I decided hand rolled hems would be the most appropriate for this gown.  This is a painstaking process, but very rewarding in the end.

First, the raw edge is folded over and held in place with a tiny running stitch.  Then, a running zigzag is made, taking only a few threads into each stitch.

Here's another look in case my big thumb was obscuring your view.

After you've made a half dozen or so of these stitches, gently pull on the thread and it magically rolls into a beautiful rolled hem, which looks like this from the wrong side:

And, like this from the outside of the garment:

I'm super happy with the look of this, but there are a lot of them to do! Hope your week's sewing is going well!

1920s Gown ala Downton Abbey Style

It's been a very, very long time since I've had any time to catch up with you!  I hope you have been well. I've been terribly preoccupied with a day job which no longer fit my needs, so I'm back with you, able to blog once more!  I'm very excited about the project that I am working on for a dear friend.

It's number 5941 from the Vintage Pattern Lending Library, a 1920's evening gown.  These patterns are tricky.  As stated in the materials enclosed in the pattern envelope, "the original instructions consist of two diagrams and eight lines of simple instruction".  Sewists contemporary to the era of the pattern would have needed little instruction for constructing and finishing this gown.  Included in the envelope is a tutorial for a muslin, but there are no instructions for a finished gown, so a lot is left to me.

I cut the pattern from the muslin material (a flat King sheet I got for a couple of dollars - great source of fabric for muslins when purchased cheaply at yard sales or flea markets) last week, and began construction yesterday.  This will not be a wearable muslin (alas) as I'll be using the deconstructed pieces as the final pattern - this one's for fitting only.  It's also helpful for identifying all the raw edges that will need some sort of finish. Here's what I've got so far!

The actual fabric I'll be using is gorgeous, with a lot more fluidity and drape than the sheet.  It's some lovely Sari silk, which I'll show you in the next post on this dress.

I also realized that I have not shown you my new sewing room!  For Yule this year, my husband had a room in the basement finished for me for sewing.  Here are two little peeks at a couple of the furnishings.  The first is a cabinet we found in the basement of the home when we moved in.  All cleaned up, it makes a great bookcase for many of my sewing and craft books.

Then, for pattern storage, we picked up this antique catalog from TOPS in Hudson Falls (my favorite second hand store, where estate finds are mixed in with new furniture - here's an earlier post about this wonderful business!).  I'll show you more, when the room is cleaned up a bit and more presentable!

I'm looking forward to sharing more on this gown project, the sewing room, and many other projects in the pipeline!  Thanks for stopping by!

Favorite Store in the News!

I speak often about my favorite store for great estate finds in my area.  I was so pleased to see an article in out local paper about the store. Not only is this store an excellent Sunday afternoon browse, but the people behind it are some of the nicest people you will ever find in this type of business.

When my husband and I bought our new (to us) Victorian home, we were faced with a few problems in furnishing it.  First, it is much larger than our previous home, and second, we wanted to restore it to some of its previous Victorian era glory.  We turned to Chris at Tops.

This chair was found in the basement of the store!

These lovely and comfortable chairs had just come into the store the day before we made one of our nearly weekly visits!

My husband fell in love with the Victorian era armoire and the heavy four poster bed.

We found this Victorian birdcage soon after buying the house, as well as the side-by-side secretary below.

 Almost every stick of furniture in the house was obtained from Chris, all at fair and reasonable prices.  Had we gone to snootier antiques dealers, we would not have been able to afford all of the wonderful furniture we now enjoy (not to mention my two wonderful vintage Singer sewing machines!!!), not to mention the many other non-furniture decor items we purchased there.

Please visit Chris at Tops! See the link to the article for store location and hours.  What's your favorite source for new old stuff?