Ooh-La-La: French Seams

I received a request from a reader to go into more detail on how to do the French seams I mentioned that I used on my Sorbetto blouse.  Today's post will do just that!

First align your pattern pieces with wrong sides together, and the right side out.  This is the opposite of what we are used to doing when making a regular seam.  Assuming you are using the standard 5/8ths inch seam allowance, sew the first seam using a 2/8ths (or 1/4 inch) seam allowance.

At this point, your seam is visible on the outside of the garment.  Next, trim to within 1/8th of an inch of the seam line.

Now turn your piece wrong side out, and press.

A second seam is now sewn, using a 3/8ths of an inch seam allowance.  The 2/8ths we used earlier, plus the 3/8ths taken now, add up to the traditional 5/8ths inch seam allowance.  Of course, all of these measurements can be changed if you are dealing with a different seam allowance.  French seams with tiny seam allowances are often used when sewing sheer fabrics as they prevent raveling and neaten the seam without adding bindings that can also add bulk.

Once this step is completed, so is your French seam!  French seams are useful, as described above with sheer fabrics, but also whenever you want to cover over the seam edges and don't want to use other seam finishes.  I've used them extensively when sewing long heavy skirts in period clothing like Medieval gowns and the like.

Thanks very much for sewing along!  If there are other techniques you'd like to see demonstrated, please feel free to comment and let me know!

Completed Project: No Money Down Sorbetto Top

Here's my completed blouse.  As planned, this blouse cost $0 to produce because I harvested the fabric from an old item that no longer fit me, made my own self fabric bias binding, and used thread I had on hand.  This top was very easy to make and I will definitely be making several of these, with various embellishments and alterations, to enhance my spring and summer wardrobe. Thanks again for looking at what I sew.

p.s.  Would you prefer to see me wear the things I make (when they're for me)?

Sorbetto Progress

This blouse has been a dream to construct.  Above, I used a piece of tape (cute duct tape, huh?) as a seam guide for sewing in the center box pleat.  Inside I used french seams to keep those seams neat, this time without the added bulk of a binding.  Here's where my dart meets the side seam.

The most time consuming part of this blouse so far has been making the self fabric bias tape.  These's a tutorial for this right on the Collette Blog.  Because this was harvested fabric, I used my own method of finding the bias and cutting.

One thing that's apparent in these pictures is how dry and cracked my fingers are by this time in the winter!  Wow, it's a good thing spring is around the corner.  Well, hopefully I'll get this blouse finished in the next couple of days.  Thanks so much for stopping by!

Beginning My Sorbetto

Today I began the process of sewing my Colette Patterns Sorbetto Top.  The image above is from the Colette Patterns blog, where you can download a free copy of this pattern to try yourself!  As I've said many times, "free" is one of my favorite words, second only to "love".  Not that I am opposed to supporting small businesses like Colette Patterns - how could I be, when I am such a business myself?  However, times are tight in my household (and many of yours), so I like to highlight freebies and frugalities whenever I can.

Once you've downloaded the pattern, it prints out, of course, as separate 8.5"x11" inch pieces of paper.  These need to be put in order and joined together, a lot like a jigsaw puzzle (but a beginner one - it wasn't hard at all!).

Then, once you've assembled your pieces, you can cut out the pattern in your chosen size, or trace it.  I chose to cut, yielding the two pattern pieces you see below.  This is a great pattern for beginners.  Two pieces, no closures.  What more could you ask for?

Tomorrow I'll be cutting the pattern.  I'm harvesting the fabric from an old peignoir set that has not fit me in years, but which I could not bear to part with.  Now the fabric will be put to good use!

The plan is to have a new blouse for no monetary outlay - free pattern, recycled fabric, notions on hand.  Please join me as I sew this simple but lovely little project!

Opinions Please

Recovery is proceeding nicely since my clumsy tumble down the stairs. The one good thing about it was that while elevating my foot, I was forced to watch Season 2 of Downton Abbey. I was held in thrall for many hours, and now I have to worry about the fate of cousin Brendan (it's a joke... Please see my maiden name) until Season 3 hits stateside :-(.

Now that I'm ready to resume sewing, I think my next project will be a blouse of some sort, possibly the lovely (and free) Colette Sorbetto. Then, in keeping with my pledge, it'll be back to the UFO pile to see what else awaits me there.

Aside from these plans, I've been wondering... Is there anything in particular that you'd like to see featured on these pages? A technique we could explore together, or a topic you haven't found covered elsewhere? Please comment and let me know!

Image credit: The Graphics Fairy