The Downton Gala presented by WMHT

What a wonderful time we had at the Downton Gala, held by WMHT at the beautifully appointed Desmond Hotel in Albany.  The evening began with champagne and picture opportunities along with an impressive silent auction.

Here is my dress – an actual photo of me, in my dress.  I must say, I felt perfectly garbed for the evening.  I also felt a little blind because I did not wear my rather contemporary glasses.  The pictures came out mostly ok anyway!

And, here is the dress I spent so much time on over the late summer and fall.  This is the dress that started it all.  So becoming on my friend, don’t you think?

And our “dates” (well, husbands) were looking dapper as well. 

The crowd came fully dressed for an evening of 20s frivolity.  Most of the gentlemen wore tuxedos and the ladies were beaded and styled to the nines.  There were some very nice displays, including some lovely frocks!

The tables were set in grand Downton style, with fresh floral arrangements and elegant candelabras.

We had a wonderful time at the Gala – and we even took home a case of wine from the silent auction!  Thanks, WMHT, for a wonderful evening prior to the stateside airing of the final episode of Downton Abbey!  Now what will I do with my Sunday evenings?

Gala Next Week

The Downton Gala is next weekend!  The dresses are pretty much complete.  Using the illustration I posted, along with the basic One-Hour Dress directions courtesy of our good historical friend, Mary Brooks Picken, here are some pictures of my dress along the way.

I trimmed the neckline with the fringe lace I showed you as one of the first trimmings I purchased for this dress.  It seemed a little too simple though, so I added some flatback black Swarovski crystals (leftovers from a tutu I made years ago for my daughter).

I added a lower lace skirt as in my illustration.

And lace sleeves which are open along the inner arm.

This buckle makes a lovely embellishment to the lace belt.

I will be styling this with a long silver and crystal necklace, a crystal headpiece, a small evening bag, opera gloves (to be worn until dinner) and 1920's style T-strap shoes.  I'll post pictures from the event of the dress in full glory.  For once, I think the dress looks better on a live person than on Betsy, my ever trusty dress form!

More Downton Designing

Another new year for the blog!  I sometimes find it hard to believe I’ve been at this for so long.  I love producing this blog, even if it is only a sporadic thing due to my many other commitments.  Thanks for stopping in when you get a chance to see what I write, when I get a chance!

This year Downton Abbey comes to a close on Masterpiece.  Our local PBS affiliate is having a gala to celebrate the show and some friends are going to the gala with us.  I have been working on my friend’s gown for a very long time.  Chiffon fabric and hand beading make for quite a project, but I think she’ll look lovely.  Almost done with the beading and final touches. 
Now I have to figure out what to wear myself.  I love the illustration here:

I purchased the instructions, but find that the instructions are for the generic dress of the period, not specifically for this illustration.  Can I figure it out?  Yes.  Did I want to be futzing around? No.  I’m only out $7.50, but I guess I didn’t need to spend it, as I could have figured it out from the picture independently.

The body of the dress will be black slipper satin.  Here are pictures of the lace and trim. 

I also purchased opera gloves, an antique clutch and period-ish shoes… I will still need a headpiece and a coat or cloak.  This soiree is in March.  In the Northeast.  Outerwear required.  Unless we dress at the hotel, which I guess is a possibility.  I’m very excited about making this gown, and even more excited about wearing it!  Stay tuned for each step of the way, along with pictures from the gala.  Did I mention that I’m excited?

Downton Dress V and One Hour Dress

Getting very near to completion on the Downton Dress.  Progress has been somewhat impeded by my new (but terrific) job.  Here are some pictures of the embellishments so far.  I don't want to add anything else until my friend tries it on and we get those beautiful bakelite clasps on.

 So, now completely enamored with 1920s style, I decided to give the famous "One Hour Dress" a try.  The instructions are pretty ubiquitously available online. This is a Mary Brooks Pickens design created as "a smart, up-to-the-minute dress" which could be cut out, sewn and be ready to wear within an hour!  Now, let's be real.  For the seamstress of that era, who knew exactly what she wanted to accomplish, this may have been possible.  However, I can say without a doubt, I've spent more than an hour so far.  I made my dress from a recycled bedspread.

This was a fussy, dry clean only bedspread my mom had been using just a few years ago.  I cut the dress per the measurements and instructions of Ms. Pickens.  I added a little pleat detail at the left hip.

It is coming out very nicely.  I just have to decide how to finish the sleeves and I will be done!  I admit that I took advantage of hems already placed for the bedspread.  Unfortunately, there is some sun fading on the fabric, so I will probably consider this one a wearable muslin and make more.  It was incredibly easy and fun!

A cloche hat and some period correct shoes and I'll be all set!  Have you tried the "One Hour Dress"? Please let me know about your results in the comments!

That Downton Dress - IV

The dress is now together and looking lovely.  A back drape is still to be attached, and then the embellishment process begins in earnest.  I thought you might appreciate a quick look.

I'm pretty happy with how it is coming together.  I really hope my friend likes it.  Just a little more to go and the final dress will be done.  I do love this drop waist twenties style.  I may have to make something similar for myself!

That Downton Dress - III

I continue to work on the Downton Dress.  All the hems have been very time consuming, but they continue to progress, and the results are very satisfying! Now I'm beginning to think about the embellishments.  The front of the dress has a draped belt and it needs clasps.  The woman I'm making the dress for bought gorgeous 1920's clasps on Etsy.  These are the real deal, and look as thought they were made for this dress!

Evening dresses in the era were often beaded and embellished.  The print on this dress is quite ornamental itself, but I purchased some other embellishments which will match nicely with the clasps.

One thing I'd like to do is put a single rhinestone on each point of the handkerchief hem, along with three bugle beads.  The larger piece will be on the back of the dress to stabilize the v-back.

This is a fun project, and one that I hope will yield stunning results!  Thanks for checking in!

p.s.  Any thoughts on the new logo?

That Downton Dress-II

One challenge with a vintage pattern is a scarcity of directions - even when the pattern is a repro, Much was assumed about the skill of the seamstress.  This dress has many handkerchief leaves in its hem, with no direction as to how to finish them.  A couture dress is distinguished by the hand sewing that goes into its production, so I decided hand rolled hems would be the most appropriate for this gown.  This is a painstaking process, but very rewarding in the end.

First, the raw edge is folded over and held in place with a tiny running stitch.  Then, a running zigzag is made, taking only a few threads into each stitch.

Here's another look in case my big thumb was obscuring your view.

After you've made a half dozen or so of these stitches, gently pull on the thread and it magically rolls into a beautiful rolled hem, which looks like this from the wrong side:

And, like this from the outside of the garment:

I'm super happy with the look of this, but there are a lot of them to do! Hope your week's sewing is going well!

That Downton Dress

The Downton, or twenties dress I am making for my friend progresses along.  I finally figured out how to cut it without having odd seams everywhere.  Here is a shot of the lovely fabric.

The drape on this is incredible.  It will be like wearing a silk scarf.  Of course to cut it, I had to rip out the fitting muslin I had made.  Here are some shots of the cutting table in progress.

The first step post cutting was to apply some wash away stabilizer at some detail points on the main front piece.  I used this for the shoulder pleats, the torso pleats and the front slash points.

I can't wait to see the finished garment on my friend.  This dress will complement her striking coloring.  BUT, this will take a bit of time.  I want it to be beautifully constructed as well.  Anyone have some tips for working with lightweight, drapey fabrics?  The stabilizer is certainly one great help.  Please feel free to share!