Gala Next Week

The Downton Gala is next weekend!  The dresses are pretty much complete.  Using the illustration I posted, along with the basic One-Hour Dress directions courtesy of our good historical friend, Mary Brooks Picken, here are some pictures of my dress along the way.

I trimmed the neckline with the fringe lace I showed you as one of the first trimmings I purchased for this dress.  It seemed a little too simple though, so I added some flatback black Swarovski crystals (leftovers from a tutu I made years ago for my daughter).

I added a lower lace skirt as in my illustration.

And lace sleeves which are open along the inner arm.

This buckle makes a lovely embellishment to the lace belt.

I will be styling this with a long silver and crystal necklace, a crystal headpiece, a small evening bag, opera gloves (to be worn until dinner) and 1920's style T-strap shoes.  I'll post pictures from the event of the dress in full glory.  For once, I think the dress looks better on a live person than on Betsy, my ever trusty dress form!

That Downton Dress - IV

The dress is now together and looking lovely.  A back drape is still to be attached, and then the embellishment process begins in earnest.  I thought you might appreciate a quick look.

I'm pretty happy with how it is coming together.  I really hope my friend likes it.  Just a little more to go and the final dress will be done.  I do love this drop waist twenties style.  I may have to make something similar for myself!

That Downton Dress-II

One challenge with a vintage pattern is a scarcity of directions - even when the pattern is a repro, Much was assumed about the skill of the seamstress.  This dress has many handkerchief leaves in its hem, with no direction as to how to finish them.  A couture dress is distinguished by the hand sewing that goes into its production, so I decided hand rolled hems would be the most appropriate for this gown.  This is a painstaking process, but very rewarding in the end.

First, the raw edge is folded over and held in place with a tiny running stitch.  Then, a running zigzag is made, taking only a few threads into each stitch.

Here's another look in case my big thumb was obscuring your view.

After you've made a half dozen or so of these stitches, gently pull on the thread and it magically rolls into a beautiful rolled hem, which looks like this from the wrong side:

And, like this from the outside of the garment:

I'm super happy with the look of this, but there are a lot of them to do! Hope your week's sewing is going well!

That Downton Dress

The Downton, or twenties dress I am making for my friend progresses along.  I finally figured out how to cut it without having odd seams everywhere.  Here is a shot of the lovely fabric.

The drape on this is incredible.  It will be like wearing a silk scarf.  Of course to cut it, I had to rip out the fitting muslin I had made.  Here are some shots of the cutting table in progress.

The first step post cutting was to apply some wash away stabilizer at some detail points on the main front piece.  I used this for the shoulder pleats, the torso pleats and the front slash points.

I can't wait to see the finished garment on my friend.  This dress will complement her striking coloring.  BUT, this will take a bit of time.  I want it to be beautifully constructed as well.  Anyone have some tips for working with lightweight, drapey fabrics?  The stabilizer is certainly one great help.  Please feel free to share!