Sew Committed: Sewing Goals for 2017!

2016 was a slow year on the blog.  I had some great sewing projects during the year, but it didn't feel like enough sewing time.  I'm looking forward to sewing more in 2017.  Here are my sewing goals for the year.

1.  Focus on upcycling.  I continue to be excited by reusing textiles from cast off clothing and homegoods.  I like a look that smoothly incorporates castoffs so that the finished product does not look too disjointed or over-planned.

2.  Lagenlook.  Let's face facts - I'm over 50 and I've been reading a few articles lately about styles that should be retired from my wardrobe.  Also, at the New Year's gala I attended, I couldn't help but notice a striking, slim woman wearing a lovely teal strapless evening gown.  She was probably in her 60s.  Though the dress fit nicely, it looked as though her back and shoulders were melting over the bodice of her gown.  Her skin was too slack to rock the strapless look.  Because of this experience, as well as my recent reading, I'm always on the lookout for designs that will flatter an aging figure.  The term lagenlook comes from German and means "layered look".  It can be done sleek and businesslike or ruffly and boho.  I've been interested for a while in adding more of these pieces to my closet.

3.  Vintage!  Vintage looks are always inspiring,  I love to "play dress-up", but I also look for vintage patterns that can be worn for everyday use.  Edwardian fashion, the jazz age and mod 60s looks are all of interest to me now.

4.  Perfecting techniques.  Another goal for this year's sewing is to work on perfecting some of the techniques I've used before to make sewing even more enjoyable.  Rolled hems, blind hems, lightweight fabrics, knits, hand stitched buttonholes and flawless zippers are easily called to mind examples.

I look forward to sharing my progress toward these goals with you!  As always, please feel free to add a comment with ideas about anything you might like to see me do this year.  Thanks, and happy sewing!

The Downton Gala presented by WMHT

What a wonderful time we had at the Downton Gala, held by WMHT at the beautifully appointed Desmond Hotel in Albany.  The evening began with champagne and picture opportunities along with an impressive silent auction.

Here is my dress – an actual photo of me, in my dress.  I must say, I felt perfectly garbed for the evening.  I also felt a little blind because I did not wear my rather contemporary glasses.  The pictures came out mostly ok anyway!

And, here is the dress I spent so much time on over the late summer and fall.  This is the dress that started it all.  So becoming on my friend, don’t you think?

And our “dates” (well, husbands) were looking dapper as well. 

The crowd came fully dressed for an evening of 20s frivolity.  Most of the gentlemen wore tuxedos and the ladies were beaded and styled to the nines.  There were some very nice displays, including some lovely frocks!

The tables were set in grand Downton style, with fresh floral arrangements and elegant candelabras.

We had a wonderful time at the Gala – and we even took home a case of wine from the silent auction!  Thanks, WMHT, for a wonderful evening prior to the stateside airing of the final episode of Downton Abbey!  Now what will I do with my Sunday evenings?

That Downton Dress-II

One challenge with a vintage pattern is a scarcity of directions - even when the pattern is a repro, Much was assumed about the skill of the seamstress.  This dress has many handkerchief leaves in its hem, with no direction as to how to finish them.  A couture dress is distinguished by the hand sewing that goes into its production, so I decided hand rolled hems would be the most appropriate for this gown.  This is a painstaking process, but very rewarding in the end.

First, the raw edge is folded over and held in place with a tiny running stitch.  Then, a running zigzag is made, taking only a few threads into each stitch.

Here's another look in case my big thumb was obscuring your view.

After you've made a half dozen or so of these stitches, gently pull on the thread and it magically rolls into a beautiful rolled hem, which looks like this from the wrong side:

And, like this from the outside of the garment:

I'm super happy with the look of this, but there are a lot of them to do! Hope your week's sewing is going well!

That Downton Dress

The Downton, or twenties dress I am making for my friend progresses along.  I finally figured out how to cut it without having odd seams everywhere.  Here is a shot of the lovely fabric.

The drape on this is incredible.  It will be like wearing a silk scarf.  Of course to cut it, I had to rip out the fitting muslin I had made.  Here are some shots of the cutting table in progress.

The first step post cutting was to apply some wash away stabilizer at some detail points on the main front piece.  I used this for the shoulder pleats, the torso pleats and the front slash points.

I can't wait to see the finished garment on my friend.  This dress will complement her striking coloring.  BUT, this will take a bit of time.  I want it to be beautifully constructed as well.  Anyone have some tips for working with lightweight, drapey fabrics?  The stabilizer is certainly one great help.  Please feel free to share!

The Amazing Shrinking Pattern?

I am puzzled, befuddled and bamboozled!  I am sad and bereft.  My beautiful Edwardian Skirt does not fit me!  In fact, It came out INCHES too small.  I am confused.  And I want to cry.  The pattern was for a 34 - 36 inch waist.  Check.  I followed all instructions and the 3/8ths inch seam allowances to the letter.

So, why oh why did the waist on the finished garment come out to 31.5 inches?  It didn't even fit Betsy, my dress dummy, with all her dials dialed to the smallest possible numbers.  Oh well. live and learn.  I didn't think I needed to do a muslin for a skirt.  I thought wrong!  And it came out so awesome, too, and I can't even wear it. 

Back to the drawing board... another restyle?  A UFO?  Or the Colette Meringue I cut a couple of weeks ago?

Skirt Progress

My Edwardian skirt progresses.  I found a sueded cream fabric to use as a facing for the scallops.  The picture above shows the joining process.  I really like the result.  On the other hand, those buttons were giving me fits!  I had no idea the buttons wouldn't practically snap themselves together!  Now maybe I was doing something wrong, or maybe my fabric was too thick, but this was not easy.

And, I don't think they came out that great...however, I have 12 little buttons for the side of my skirt.  Have any of you ever used one of these kits?  How were your results?

Hopefully I will finish this tomorrow.  Please come back to see how this came out!  Thanks!

Edwardian Skirt Update

I am working on this lovely Edwardian Skirt from Vintage Pattern Lending Library.  I'm planning to pair it with my Armistice Blouse.  I fell in love with this skirt the second I saw it.  Of course, there's nothing to all the straight sewing, but that cute little scalloped edge detail on the left side of the skirt is taking some machinations, let me tell you. 

This one is going to take a little longer than planned, probably going into next week.  I want to do self fabric covered buttons, and I'm considering some possible details for the binding on the scallops.  Please, if any of you have done this skirt, please do leave a comment and give me any advice you have!

Instead of completing this little gem by tomorrow, I think I'll do a little refashioning tomorrow so that I can chock up an accomplishment for the week.  I couldn't let a week go by without finishing something!

Completed Project: Armistice Blouse

Today's reveal is of the Armistice Blouse by Folkwear Patterns.  I was inspired to make this blouse as a 1912 Titanic Anniversary commemorative piece, with a little Downton Abbey envy thrown in for good measure.  Specifically, this was a dry run of Lady Mary's beautiful cream version of this blouse.  I plan to do another now, more closely resembling the one worn by Michelle Dockery as Lady Mary.

I made several modifications to this pattern.  First, I did away with the front button closure.  I wanted a more casual version.  Second, I did go with shorter sleeves, and will go even shorter next time as I try to recreate the Lady Mary blouse.  Third, I did not use a self fabric waist tie, instead opting for grosgrain ribbon in a coordinating shade of lilac.  Fourth, Instead of using gathering stitches at the back of the blouse, I used elastic.  Here's my blouse.  I really did try to take pictures of myself in it, so to prove that here's one... when I get the skirt done I'll get a long suffering family member to take pictures, honest.

And now, here's Betty with the remainder of the modeling duties.

Here is the detail on the back elastic.

And here are some shots of the inside of the blouse, so that you can see the french seams.  Here's the side seam.

And here is an internal view of the armscye.

I know, if I didn't tell you what it was, you might not know, right?  And here's the inside of the blouse front.

So, I will definitely be making this pattern again.  It came together easily, though I admit to ignoring most of the sewing instructions because of the modifications I made.  Please let me know what you think, and as always, I appreciate you reading what I am doing.

Armistice Blouse Progress

It occurred to me today as I worked along, how much I really love to sew.  Time just flies by, even though the work may be very time consuming.  Like basting lace into place prior to machine stitching it down.

I hope to have the blouse completed tomorrow.  Then, I'll be skipping my usual UFO project to do an Edwardian skirt to go with the blouse.  I'd like to have the emsemble completed by the Titanic anniversary, even though I'm not attending any themed parties.  How do you feel about anchoring current day celebrations around past events?  How about when the events are unhappy ones?  I'm curious to hear your opinions.  Thanks for watching my progress!