Vintage Pattern Handling

If you've been reading my blog for any amount of time, you know I always like to think of sewing as a sustainability skill.  While perhaps not as immediate and primal as knowing how to start a fire, or use dried beans, sewing certainly comes in handy if you are trying to get the most out of your clothing and textiles.  Like so many young women of my generation, I learned to sew in home economics class and in Girl Scouts.  My mother was a home sewist, and sewing was deemed an inexpensive method of expanding one’s wardrobe.

Expand I did! I made dresses, formals, skirts and even costumes.  Here's the pattern for the first dress I ever made!  At the time, my clothing budget for school and social occasions was very small and I was a student of international folk dance with a limited budget for ethnic dance ensembles.  

As an adult sewist I have gained an appreciation for vintage patterns.  I use them to create period costumes, and also to enhance my everyday wardrobe.  I’m always thrilled when I find a pattern that excites my imagination.  The fact that the pattern is still around (and not at the bottom of some landfill) is impressive.  Even more impressive is the fact that this pattern can still be used to create a special piece of clothing evocative of a long-ago style. 

I scour estate sales, thrift shops, and yard sales to acquire vintage patterns.  I keep many for myself, and I also sell them in my Seams Sustainable Etsy shop.  When I get the patterns home, I open each one and go through it to ascertain that all the pieces and directions are present.  Some vintage beauties are very challenging because of unprinted pattern pieces and minimal directions.  In times when many women could sew, the directions seem very minimal compared to the step by step directions included with more modern patterns!  Also, they require some special handling due to age!

I then consider whether the pattern will withstand use.  Tissue paper is usually acid-free and remarkably resilient.  However, the pattern’s past use and storage play a role in its present utility.  I have encountered pattern pieces crumpled into the envelope, wadded together from water damage, and torn either due to past pinning or due to labeling perforations becoming tears. In all of these cases, I very gently peel back the onion layers and try to separate the pieces.  Some patterns will just not be salvageable, but most I find I can gently separate. 

Once I’m sure that everything is present and can be separated, I decide whether to keep a pattern or resell.  Though grading a pattern up is very doable, I generally only keep patterns close to my measurements unless I am seeking a challenge.  My sewing time is short enough without adding complex fitting problems! 

Whether I am reselling the pattern, or keeping it, I next flatten the pattern, either to fold it back into the envelope or to use it.  For this, I will often use my iron, on a very low dry setting.  If the pattern seems fragile, and I plan to use it, tracing it onto newer tissue, exam table paper, or other pattern paper will help to preserve the original for posterity.  If the pattern is made of sterner stuff, I recommend using pattern weights instead of pins to keep your pattern intact.

Enjoy your summer sewing!  Do you sew with vintage patterns?  If so, what methods do you use to preserve them?

Completed: Hot Patterns 1226

I finally found the time to complete my Hot Patterns 1226 blouse. 

A few notes on the result.  The pattern was very easy to use and the directions were clear.  The picture on the envelope is a very accurate depiction of how this blouse fits and hangs on the body.  Can I say, there's quite a bit of wearing ease here! It's a very slouchy, casual look.  If you wanted something a little more formal, or form fitting, it would be very easy to adjust the pattern along the seam lines.  Here's a picture of the completed blouse, gracing my trusty dressform, Betsy. 

She wears it well!  Overall I'm pleased with the result, though I think I may make it again, perhaps a size smaller.  It will be cool and breezy while providing office-appropriate coverage.  Thanks for viewing my result.

I'm not exactly sure what's on deck next.  Maybe a nice summery dress!  What are you sewing this summer?

Grand Reopening: Seams Sustainable Etsy Shop

I've been hard at work reopening my Etsy Shop.  I'm very pleased to have about 150 items posted!  Mostly sewing patterns, but a few other items as well!

Like this really cool mid-century sewing box.  I picked this up at a thrift store, and I'm really hoping it finds a terrific new home!

I am constantly acquiring new patterns at yard sales, estate sales, thrift shops, etc.  Many are simply intended for resale, but there are very many I actually have to argue with myself to part with!  Sometimes I promise myself that if a pattern is not re-homed when the listing expires I can keep it!  Here are a few of the ones I love:

I also buy a lot of sewing references.  Here's one I liked so much, I bought it twice!  The duplicate is in my shop (oops).

I'd really love it if you'd stop by the Etsy shop!  Please let me know if there's anything you have been looking for, that perhaps I can find for you!

Eager to Sew!

I'm back!

It's been a very long time since I've sewn anything, and I'm itching to get back on board.  In all fairness, it was a rough year.  Way too complicated to get into here, but trust me...

I'm starting out 2018 with essentially the same goals I started in 2017.  Since I accomplished none of them, it's do-over time!  I'm really excited to be setting my sewing area up for some great projects for 2018.  I'm also happy to be reopening my Etsy shop, where I'll once again be selling some great vintage patterns, notions, and books!

I've missed blogging, and I can't wait to produce some interesting content for you.  Please let me know if there's something, in particular, you'd like to see, and as always, thanks for your kind support!

More Downton Designing

Another new year for the blog!  I sometimes find it hard to believe I’ve been at this for so long.  I love producing this blog, even if it is only a sporadic thing due to my many other commitments.  Thanks for stopping in when you get a chance to see what I write, when I get a chance!

This year Downton Abbey comes to a close on Masterpiece.  Our local PBS affiliate is having a gala to celebrate the show and some friends are going to the gala with us.  I have been working on my friend’s gown for a very long time.  Chiffon fabric and hand beading make for quite a project, but I think she’ll look lovely.  Almost done with the beading and final touches. 
Now I have to figure out what to wear myself.  I love the illustration here:

I purchased the instructions, but find that the instructions are for the generic dress of the period, not specifically for this illustration.  Can I figure it out?  Yes.  Did I want to be futzing around? No.  I’m only out $7.50, but I guess I didn’t need to spend it, as I could have figured it out from the picture independently.

The body of the dress will be black slipper satin.  Here are pictures of the lace and trim. 

I also purchased opera gloves, an antique clutch and period-ish shoes… I will still need a headpiece and a coat or cloak.  This soiree is in March.  In the Northeast.  Outerwear required.  Unless we dress at the hotel, which I guess is a possibility.  I’m very excited about making this gown, and even more excited about wearing it!  Stay tuned for each step of the way, along with pictures from the gala.  Did I mention that I’m excited?

Pattern Review: Alice Tunic from the Magic Pattern Book

The Magic Pattern Book by Amy Barickman (Workman Press, 2014, list price $22.95) is one of those great sewing books with endless possibilities for your creativity.  I've had the book for some time, but have not had the time to try any of the patterns.  The premise behind this book is that from variations on six basic patterns, one could make an entire wardrobe.

I decided to first try the Alice Tank Top or tunic.  The pattern is very cute and fits with my current Lagenlook style.  It is pictured in the book styled with leggings, cowboy boots (not my thing, but ok if you like them) and a long thin infinity loop and dangle earrings.  Cute!

Patterns are included on an accompanying CD.  The same issue exists here as with any PDF pattern which prints in tiles and must be taped together.  Care must be taken to align the papers precisely so as not to create and then propagate problems with sewing and fitting the pattern.  The pattern went together "ok".  There were a few spots where it did not match up perfectly and had to be muscled a little bit.  Not the end of the world.

After some initial fiddling with the pattern, all troubles ceased.  The pattern went together like a dream, and was not at all difficult to sew.  I opted to have the neck and armhole facings appear on the outside of the garment as a trim, and I used a solid fabric for the bodice potion of the top.  I carefully saved the pattern pieces, so I can duplicate this top again.

I really love the way the top came out, and I'm sure I'll wear it frequently.  The black linen bodice was cut from fabric I had leftover in my stash from another project.  The floral print on the bottom, and used for the facings as well, came from Fabric.com and was on sale.  Here is Betsy, wearing my new Alice Tank Top.  Oh, by the way, this is a pull on top, as people have asked about closures in the past, wondering if those were just not shown.  No closures here!

Stay tuned for more on the Downton Dress, and my Home Dec project, as well as more random sewing shenanigans when I need a break from the serious stuff!

Summer Dress from a Japanese Pattern Book (in English)!

I have a fascination with the many pretty Japanese pattern books available now in English.  I pin them to my Pinterest sewing board, Sew Inspired. I collect them (I think I have a half dozen or more). But, until now I have not really tried to sew anything from them. I love the simple yet elegant lines of these patterns.  I admit I was a little intimidated by the talk online that these are difficult to sew.   I decided to ignore all naysayers and start with the Sweet Dress Book by Yoshiko Tsukiori.

The patterns that come with these books are generally to be found in a pouch in the back of the book.

One needs to remove the desired sheet, flatten it out, and trace the desired pattern pieces.  I used freezer paper, which is one of my favorite pattern papers.  Keep in mind that the patterns are without seam allowances, so you'll need to add an allowance to each pattern piece.

The pattern I chose is IC, a loose fitting dress with french sleeve and lovely pleats at the neckline. I used an adjustable blind hem foot to make perfect little pleats.

Here is the finished dress on Betsy, my trusty dress form.

This dress was fun to make, and not at all difficult.  I am loving how it came out.  I wore it out to coffee yesterday, and I can tell it's going to be a staple part of my summer wardrobe.  Please leave a comment and let me know what you think!  Have you tried Japanese sewing pattern books?

Isn't that Pinteresting?

I admit it.  Pinterest is one of my guilty pleasures.  And I'm far from alone.  The internet is abuzz with with, well, buzz about one of the most successful and addicting social media sites to be invented.  And it's not just nameless, faceless hoardes of web trolls who frequent the site, its almost everyone I know.

When I'm looking for inspiration, whether it's planning my various home makeover projects or planning my next sewing project, I turn to Pinterest.  I follow many boards, not because I hold the pinner in high regard, but because I love the pinner's taste, or they are pinning about something I am passionate about as well. 

In this recurring feature, I'd like to share a pin from one of my boards (concentrating on sewing, of course, but I may stray a little now and then!), and tell you a little about why I pinned it.  I'd love for you to chime in, too, and let me know your opinions about the information, and point me in other directions if you've seen something similar, or maybe, in your opinion, better!

For installment 1, I'll start with something simple.  On my board, Sew Inspired, I pin anything that could inspire my sewing.  Patterns, sewing rooms, notions, tutorials (possibly some of yours!)... you name it, if it's related to sewing, you could find it here.  Here is one of my recent pattern pins, McCall's 4408, from 1957.

 

 

This pattern appeals to me on a number of levels.  You all know I love vintage, particularly the 50's, the thirties and the Victorian/Edwardian eras.  Come to think of it, I won't put my nose up at Medieval or Rennaisance stuff either!  So, the fifties MadMen vibe was of instant appeal.  I love that there is a wiggle dress option and a full skirt option... I can also see the wiggle with a sheer full over dress!  But the thing I loved the most was the cute bow embellishment on the hem.  This could be added to other patterns, or used to restyle a thrift shop find.  I even liked the nice earthtones the artist used to render the fashion illustration!  I can see this made up in a nice silk (or two).  This was originally pinned from the Etsy Shop of sydcam123, and, at least at the time of this post, was still available.

 

What do you think about this pattern?  Is this something you would pin, or are your pattern tastes different?  Let me know, and feel free to share the links to your sewing boards.  I'd love to take a peek!

Adorna's Patterns-Part I

I've been spending a lot of time with Adorna and her patterns over the past few days... as I mentioned, I'm using My Memories Suite™ scrapbooking software to organize and catalog them.  While Adorna (and her mother) seem to have had a serious penchant for shirtdresses, I am so excited and inspired by the collection. I'm trying to decide which to make first, though I've barely made a dent in the cataloging!

Here's a serious contender that I think would make a nice holiday party dress, made up in a nice satin, with a nice jacket or wrap.  It's a mailorder pattern from The News, dated late fifties by the metered postage.  I'm learning so much about dating these patterns by their postage markings even when there is no date on the postmark!  If you're interested in learning more about this, please visit here!

Here's another one I just love! I can see it made up in a lightweight wool. As we head into fall and winter, it looks warm and practical as well as stylish! It's a Marian Martin mailorder pattern from about the early fifties.

Another leading contender is the jacket from this pattern (though I like the dress as well). Again, heading into fall, all I can think about is warm and cozy! This is a forties pattern from the Hollywood Pattern line.

Which one do you like best?  Any suggestions on which one I should make first?  Ooh, and don't forget to enter my giveaway to win a free My Memories software suite, valued at $39.95.

Scrapbooking Software Giveaway!

If you're like me, you are interested in multiple other crafts besides sewing… but, if you're like me, sewing is your first love.  Recently, because of my wedding, I've been doing a lot of photo journaling and scrapbooking.  This used to mean getting out the glue, scissors and boxes of paper bits to incorporate into your design. It also used to mean spending tons of money on papers, embellishments, photo prints and albums. Not anymore! With today's digital scrapbooking options, you can have all of the fun with none of the mess, and very little expense.

But what does this have to do with sewing, you might ask.  Well, sewing is never far from my mind. Remember all those cool vintage patterns I got at the estate sale? I need a means of cataloging them so that I can minimize handling them unless I'm tracing them for use.  So, I used My Memories Suite™ to create scrapbook pages which I can use to organize and catalog my patterns.  When shopping, I can bring a printed page with me, rather than trying to jot notes in my unreadable chickenscratch, or bring the actual pattern envelope and risk damage to already fragile goods.

Best of all, this was so easy! I just scanned the pattern envelopes (something I'm still in the process of doing) and used the scans as pictures in my design. I added places to make notes. One about the pattern itself, and one to notes dates I made up the pattern, what fabric I used and the results.  I added some sewing clipart from my collection, and voila! I'm really excited about this because it helps me stay organized on several fronts.

This isn't the only application of digital scrapbooking software for the sewing room, I'm sure… I have another few project ideas up my sleeve! And, I'd like to share the software with you.  I'm giving away one free copy of the software right here.  Simply go to the My Memories site and look over all the scrapbooking kits. Come back here and leave me a comment, letting me know your favorite kit. I will select a winner at random on September 25th!  Good luck!

 

Also, how do you organize and track your patterns?  Especially the delicate ones? I'm always open to suggestions!

Estate Sale Booty

I'm pretty sure I've mentioned this to you before... I LOVE ESTATE SALES! I had to take a time out today and do something non-wedding related, so I hit an estate sale! and OMG! I came away with the most amazing haul!

First, it's important to note that I got everything you are seeing here, and more, for a total of $15! Yes, that's right, $15!  That high pitched noise you hear is me squealing in delight.

First up, a nearly mint copy of the Better Homes and Gardens Sewing book from the sixties... AWESOME!

The, a ginormous box containing hundreds of patterns...

as well as a few odds and ends.  There were a small collection of notions,

and a little pile of iron on embroidery patterns.

As well as about a half dozen cooperative extension publications on sewing.

The patterns are fantastic.  Most are used, so I'll need to go through them to be sure they are intact, etc.  Many I will put to good use myself, others, I will sell, and still others will be part of a really cool give-away in the not too distant future.  Not only were some of these from the pattern companies we know, like Simplicity, Vogue and McCall, but there were a fair number of Advance and Hollywood, and some awesome mailorder ones.  Best of all, most of these are close to my size, so, for the ones I keep, there'll be relatively little drafting up and down.

Most of the patterns were addressed to Miss Adorna Wheelock... Adorna... what a unique and interesting name, especially for a sewist!  There were some handwritten notes on some of the patterns, like these:

As I said, some of these may be missing pieces, and some have some tearing on the pattern envelopes, but what a find, yes?  Do any of these strike your fancy?