I've Got a Notion - Hand Sewing Needles

I love estate sales, yard sales and rummage sales (if you've ever read this blog before, you know this). One of the things I buy frequently at these sales is sewing baskets. Sadly, a sewist passes on, and her family has no earthly clue what to do with her things. Often, whole sewing baskets can be found in these sales, fully stocked with all sorts of great tools and notions, left just the way the owner left it.

I've acquired neatly organized baskets, and ones that look as though the grandkids just pawed through it looking for only they know what. All have their charms and treasures within. One of the things I come across most frequently and abundantly are hand sewing needles.

I will never have to purchase another hand sewing needle at a conventional modern sewing store. I have hundreds (maybe thousands) of these gems. Some will remain in their wrappers unused, and others will be used in my work. Some will be passed on to others via Etsy.

Hand sewing needles come in greater variety than the uninitiated would think. Each needle is crafted for a particular purpose. The most common is the “sharp”, used for general hand work, with a round eye, a sharp point and a medium length. Applique and crewel needles are used in embroidery and surface design. Tapestry needles are used for needlepoint and other canvas work. Betweens are hand quilting needles. Milliners needles and beading needles are very long and are usually used for decorative work. Darning needles are long with blunt points and used in fabric repair and reweaving.

And, of course there are specialty needles for upholstery and leather work.

Each needle type comes in a variety of sizes. The size is indicated by one or more numbers on the manufacturer's packaging. The general convention for sizing of needles, as with wire gauge, is that within any given class of needle the length and thickness of a needle increases as the size number decreases. When a package contains a needle count followed by two size numbers such as "20 Sharps 5/10" the second set of numbers correspond to the range of sizes of needle within the packet, in this case typically ten sharps needles of size 5 and ten of size 10 (for a total of 20 needles).

The packaging of needles is also fascinating, from ornate needle books, to advertising premiums. Some of the packages feature great artwork, which seems so grandiose when you consider that the contents are but humble sewing needles.   

I've been doing quite a lot of hand sewing lately for the Downton Dress.  Between that and my estate sale habit, I have developed a new appreciation for the hand sewing needle!

That Downton Dress-II

One challenge with a vintage pattern is a scarcity of directions - even when the pattern is a repro, Much was assumed about the skill of the seamstress.  This dress has many handkerchief leaves in its hem, with no direction as to how to finish them.  A couture dress is distinguished by the hand sewing that goes into its production, so I decided hand rolled hems would be the most appropriate for this gown.  This is a painstaking process, but very rewarding in the end.

First, the raw edge is folded over and held in place with a tiny running stitch.  Then, a running zigzag is made, taking only a few threads into each stitch.

Here's another look in case my big thumb was obscuring your view.

After you've made a half dozen or so of these stitches, gently pull on the thread and it magically rolls into a beautiful rolled hem, which looks like this from the wrong side:

And, like this from the outside of the garment:

I'm super happy with the look of this, but there are a lot of them to do! Hope your week's sewing is going well!

That Ultimate Restyle

My cold is mostly better now, and I'm still working on the finishing touches to my wedding dress.  The wedding is coming up very soon, though I'm sure it seems like you've heard about this dress forever.  I've been hand sewing lace and other embellishment to the dress.  Here are a few quick detail pics.

I can't wait to wear it at the end of the month!  Until then, there's lots more I'm working on... for instance, I did our invitations a few weeks ago.  I designed them myself and printed them on my printer at home.

The theme is tandem bicycles... popular, to an extent it seems.  I got a great tandem bike cake topper on Etsy from heatherboyd.

I have SO many more things to do, and I'm taking you all along for the ride (tee hee).  Hey, my dress needs to be pressed... have you ever used a dry cleaner just for pressing?  I lack the equipment I think.  Anyway, thanks for stopping by!

Hand Picked Zipper

I'm working along on my wedding dress, and I decided to do a hand picked zipper, rather than using the machine.  The appearance will be much more subtle on the finished dress.  To review the skills needed, I consulted a recent article in Threads Magazine on hand sewing techniques.  After practicing a bit on plain fabric, I was ready to tackle the real thing.

I applied the zipper with the back seam basted closed.

Here's the completed zipper section of the back bodice.

And here's the inside, with the lining hand stitched down.

Next, I need to apply some lace detailing to the right side of the dress.  this is another lengthy hand sewing project.  Thanks for checking in on my progress!  Do you use a lot of hand sewn details in your work?

Progress and Paying it Forward

Tina at Down the Retro Rabbit Hole is playing the Pay it Forward Handmade game, and I would love to play this game, too.  You see, the first three commenters on this post will receive something from me that I have made just for them!  How fun is that, and who doesn't like to receive goodies in the mail?

So, here's what you need to do:

• Leave me a comment telling me your favorite color (or the colors you absolutely loathe) to help me make you a gift you'll hopefully love! Please don't forget to include your email address (if you profile doesn't link back) so I can get in touch.
• To complete signing up, you MUST play along too by blogging a similar post and pledging to make a surprise for the fist three (3) people who comment on it.  

The rules state you will receive your handmade item within 365 days, however, I pledge to get this out to you within 30 days. I wouldn't want you to wait around forever!

 

Now, regarding Butterick 4228. I am in love with this pattern! The top came together like a dream, even though I had to trace and refit the facings. I had just the right zipper in my stash, thanks to a purchase I made from Vogue Fabrics at a sewing show.  I bought a mixed bag of random zippers for

$7.00. I have been saved so many trips to the sewing store by this purchase. I almost always can find something usable in my little box of zippers.

So here's the zipper installed.  Just some handsewing, and this top will be completed.  Then I'll show you the fabric I want to make the entire outfit from.  It coordinates with the "muslin" top so the outfit will have two interchangeable tops!

Don't forget to comment to play Pay it Forward!  Can't wait to make something for you!