Preserving (Recent) History: Pattern from Loved Dress

Once upon a time I had a dress that I just loved.  It fit and flattered perfectly.  It was from Chico's and was made of a comfy, breathable and packable rayon.  I could add a jacket for office, or a cardi for evening.

Then, one day, it ripped along a seam line in several places.  Reparable - yes - probably by replacing the whole seamline.  I can't just sew a new seam, as then it would probably become too snug.  So, my first step was to make a pattern from the old dress, though I added quite a bit toward the hemline, to make a trapeze fit.  I want to use it to make tunics.

Next, I made a muslin, which I plan to wear as a nightgown.  I used leftover fabric from a sheet set I picked up at a garage sale.  I had used the flat sheet earlier to make a dress.

It was also a great opportunity to practice self-bias binding...

 and using my narrow hem foot!

That was both fun and practical!  Next up, a top from this pretty fabric!

Thanks for coming by!

1920s Gown ala Downton Abbey Style

It's been a very, very long time since I've had any time to catch up with you!  I hope you have been well. I've been terribly preoccupied with a day job which no longer fit my needs, so I'm back with you, able to blog once more!  I'm very excited about the project that I am working on for a dear friend.

It's number 5941 from the Vintage Pattern Lending Library, a 1920's evening gown.  These patterns are tricky.  As stated in the materials enclosed in the pattern envelope, "the original instructions consist of two diagrams and eight lines of simple instruction".  Sewists contemporary to the era of the pattern would have needed little instruction for constructing and finishing this gown.  Included in the envelope is a tutorial for a muslin, but there are no instructions for a finished gown, so a lot is left to me.

I cut the pattern from the muslin material (a flat King sheet I got for a couple of dollars - great source of fabric for muslins when purchased cheaply at yard sales or flea markets) last week, and began construction yesterday.  This will not be a wearable muslin (alas) as I'll be using the deconstructed pieces as the final pattern - this one's for fitting only.  It's also helpful for identifying all the raw edges that will need some sort of finish. Here's what I've got so far!

The actual fabric I'll be using is gorgeous, with a lot more fluidity and drape than the sheet.  It's some lovely Sari silk, which I'll show you in the next post on this dress.

I also realized that I have not shown you my new sewing room!  For Yule this year, my husband had a room in the basement finished for me for sewing.  Here are two little peeks at a couple of the furnishings.  The first is a cabinet we found in the basement of the home when we moved in.  All cleaned up, it makes a great bookcase for many of my sewing and craft books.

Then, for pattern storage, we picked up this antique catalog from TOPS in Hudson Falls (my favorite second hand store, where estate finds are mixed in with new furniture - here's an earlier post about this wonderful business!).  I'll show you more, when the room is cleaned up a bit and more presentable!

I'm looking forward to sharing more on this gown project, the sewing room, and many other projects in the pipeline!  Thanks for stopping by!

Progress and Paying it Forward

Tina at Down the Retro Rabbit Hole is playing the Pay it Forward Handmade game, and I would love to play this game, too.  You see, the first three commenters on this post will receive something from me that I have made just for them!  How fun is that, and who doesn't like to receive goodies in the mail?

So, here's what you need to do:

• Leave me a comment telling me your favorite color (or the colors you absolutely loathe) to help me make you a gift you'll hopefully love! Please don't forget to include your email address (if you profile doesn't link back) so I can get in touch.
• To complete signing up, you MUST play along too by blogging a similar post and pledging to make a surprise for the fist three (3) people who comment on it.  

The rules state you will receive your handmade item within 365 days, however, I pledge to get this out to you within 30 days. I wouldn't want you to wait around forever!

 

Now, regarding Butterick 4228. I am in love with this pattern! The top came together like a dream, even though I had to trace and refit the facings. I had just the right zipper in my stash, thanks to a purchase I made from Vogue Fabrics at a sewing show.  I bought a mixed bag of random zippers for

$7.00. I have been saved so many trips to the sewing store by this purchase. I almost always can find something usable in my little box of zippers.

So here's the zipper installed.  Just some handsewing, and this top will be completed.  Then I'll show you the fabric I want to make the entire outfit from.  It coordinates with the "muslin" top so the outfit will have two interchangeable tops!

Don't forget to comment to play Pay it Forward!  Can't wait to make something for you!

Economics of Sewing - Part 2

Last time we talked about free and low cost options for acquiring sewing patterns.  Today, let's look at interesting sources for low cost sewing fabrics, trims and notions.
   
I don't need to tell you that full priced fabrics are very expensive.  My first suggestion here is something that many of us shy away from:  harvesting fabric from items that no longer fit, or that were never garments in the first place.  Did any of you see Blast from the Past, starring Alicia Silverstone and Brendan Fraser?  One of my favorite scenes takes place on Brendan Fraser's character's birthday.  Having lived in a fallout shelter for the past thirty years, his family is running out of nearly everything.  As a present, his mom, played by the awesome Sissy Spacek, makes him a new sports jacket from old curtains.  Now, it looks quite unconventional, but it was made with love (see below) - and who wants to look strictly conventional anyway!  Dated drapes become a new dress, and old round table cloth is a new circle skirt, and an oversized dress can provide the fabric for a new blouse.  In this instance I'm not talking about item restyling, but actually using item number one's fabric to make item number two. Of course, thrift and consignment shops are a bountiful source of these "harvested" fabrics, as are yard and estate sales.  Basically, anyplace where you can see the condition of the fabric you plan to harvest, can be a great source, if the price is right!

While we're on the subject of harvesting, don't forget that this can also be a great source for notions and trims.  My grandmother, raising her family during the depression, saved everything!  Even the buttonhole twist from one coat's buttons to use on another.  Having learned from the master, when I take apart an article of clothing that I intend to either refashion or simply harvest fabric from, I always take off any reusable trims, buttons, and even zippers.  While you may not want to reuse a zipper for a high wear garment, you might want to use one in a fitting muslin rather than using a brand new one!

 
If you want more traditional yard goods, but want to pay a lower price, you have many options, including some of the ones we've already mentioned, those thrift stores, consignment shops, yard sales and estate sales also sometimes have uncut yardage which can be purchased at a fraction of what would be asked in a traditional fabric store.  Just this past weekend, Sue from Sewin' Steady scored a huge box of fabrics and notions for just $11! Of course, those traditional stores do have sales and extensive couponing programs which can help considerably at the register.  Online shopping is another great option here.  Many traditional fabric stores have an online presence, and coupons will usually apply to online purchases as well.  Also, many of these stores will have swatching services so that you can see what you're getting before making a commitment.  Additionally, one can obtain fabrics on Craig's List, eBay, Etsy, Freecycle.  By definition, what is offered on Freecycle is free, but when using the other sites, it helps to have a sense of what the same fabric would go for in a variety of different settings.  In other words, comparison shopping is required if you are going to come up with a bargain.

Thanks for reading this little series.  Please comment and let me know if you have other favorite sources for low cost fabrics.

Linked to The Thrift Home.

Vintage Goodness in Progress

I've been working hard on my sailor dress.  So far, I'm thrilled that the alterations I made during the muslin phase are paying off in the final garment.  You'll be happy to know the hips are covered!  Now the really daunting work begins... all those buttons (and buttonholes)!  Yes, my machine does have a buttonholer, but I've been entertaining sick thoughts of hand binding them.  I know, I know, I need my head examined!

Which brings me to something I've given a lot of thought to lately.  Probably like you, I read a lot of sewing blogs.  Do they ever give you an inferiority complex?  I mean, here are these gorgeous dresses, coats, and outfits, and many posters seem to indicate that these droolworthy creations took only a few hours to create.  I have three times that amount invested in this little sailor dress.  Tracing the pattern so as not to ruin the original, cutting and making the muslin, altering for my measurements, cutting the fashion fabric and sewing the actual dress - not to mention little things like seam finishing, etc.!  Is it me?  Am I slow?  Maybe.

Anyway, when I complete the button bacchanalia I will post pictures of the dress.  Meanwhile, here's a treat from Handmade Ryan Gosling!

A (not too) vintage project

Today I started a vintage pattern project. I say that it's not too vintage because it's from the seventies - the era in which I first learned to sew - so it's not THAT old!

The pattern is Simplicity 5566, a cute sailor styled tunic and pant set, or dress. I'm making the dress. I'm pleased to say that the pattern, purchased from Patterns from the Past (www.oldpatterns.com), is in mint condition, and was easily traced onto Swedish tracing paper. I am making a muslin, because the pattern, while correctly sized for my bust measurement, comes up skimpy for my curvaceously apportioned hips, and some adjustments will need to be made. Stay tuned for updates on the process, and a picture of the completed dress. Ahoy maties!