Gala Next Week

The Downton Gala is next weekend!  The dresses are pretty much complete.  Using the illustration I posted, along with the basic One-Hour Dress directions courtesy of our good historical friend, Mary Brooks Picken, here are some pictures of my dress along the way.

I trimmed the neckline with the fringe lace I showed you as one of the first trimmings I purchased for this dress.  It seemed a little too simple though, so I added some flatback black Swarovski crystals (leftovers from a tutu I made years ago for my daughter).

I added a lower lace skirt as in my illustration.

And lace sleeves which are open along the inner arm.

This buckle makes a lovely embellishment to the lace belt.

I will be styling this with a long silver and crystal necklace, a crystal headpiece, a small evening bag, opera gloves (to be worn until dinner) and 1920's style T-strap shoes.  I'll post pictures from the event of the dress in full glory.  For once, I think the dress looks better on a live person than on Betsy, my ever trusty dress form!

Downton Dress V and One Hour Dress

Getting very near to completion on the Downton Dress.  Progress has been somewhat impeded by my new (but terrific) job.  Here are some pictures of the embellishments so far.  I don't want to add anything else until my friend tries it on and we get those beautiful bakelite clasps on.

 So, now completely enamored with 1920s style, I decided to give the famous "One Hour Dress" a try.  The instructions are pretty ubiquitously available online. This is a Mary Brooks Pickens design created as "a smart, up-to-the-minute dress" which could be cut out, sewn and be ready to wear within an hour!  Now, let's be real.  For the seamstress of that era, who knew exactly what she wanted to accomplish, this may have been possible.  However, I can say without a doubt, I've spent more than an hour so far.  I made my dress from a recycled bedspread.

This was a fussy, dry clean only bedspread my mom had been using just a few years ago.  I cut the dress per the measurements and instructions of Ms. Pickens.  I added a little pleat detail at the left hip.

It is coming out very nicely.  I just have to decide how to finish the sleeves and I will be done!  I admit that I took advantage of hems already placed for the bedspread.  Unfortunately, there is some sun fading on the fabric, so I will probably consider this one a wearable muslin and make more.  It was incredibly easy and fun!

A cloche hat and some period correct shoes and I'll be all set!  Have you tried the "One Hour Dress"? Please let me know about your results in the comments!

Another Vintage Find

During our honeymoon, we did a little antique browsing. You know me, my eyes are always peeled for great sewing related finds. There's a little antiques co-op, not far from here that I love. I've shared finds from there with you before, including my beloved copy of Make Do and Mend. While casually browsing, my spidey senses began to tingle... literally, that's the only way to describe it... something made me look inside an old barrister's bookcase (you know, the kind with the glass cover panels to protect the books and documents) and I found the first seven books from the Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts and Sciences course in "Complete Dressmaking and Designing With Pattern Drafting"! This course is the one headed by Mary Brooks Picken which so inspired Amy Barickman to write Vintage Notions (see my review here).

Anyway, ladies, I was so excited that my hands were literally shaking as I pulled these beauties from the case. They are in fabulous, near mint condition and they have already provided me with hours of enjoyment. My new hubby could see that I was beyond excited about these books, and he saw to it that I did not leave the shop without them. My only disappointment is that it is a partial set... the first seven in a seventeen book course!  I am dying to get my hands on the rest of the titles in the set. Seriously, if anyone would like to part with a set they own, let's talk. While I am far from a woman of means, I'd just love to have the rest of these, particularly if they were of the same vintage.

Each chapter in these wonderful volumes includes test materials.  Little quizzes on the contents presented, or instructions on what samples to create and mail in to be critiques by the faculty of the Institute.  There are a ton of projects to complete within these pages, may of which I will be sharing with you!

Included inside the first volume was a sheet detailing the course overview.  It also listed supplies that would be sent to each subscriber to the course.  These included a dressmaker's gauge, tape measure, answer papers, information blanks (I assume for notes), return envelopes and measure slips.

The books were sent out one at a time, so my assumption is that this subscriber decided not to continue in her studies for some reason. None of the books bore a name, or any other information, so I will never know why my historic friend stopped getting her books.

To commemorate this find, I'd like to share a little freebie with you! Here is a copy of the original Woman's Institute Measure Slip! Click on the image below and you will be redirected to download a fullsize PDF of the measure slip.  Print off several to use for your own measurements, or those of the people you sew for! Or, using PDF fill-in software, keep all the info on your computer. In any case, use it with my compliments, and thanks for your encouraging comments!

Book Review: Amy Barickman's Vintage Notions

Vintage Notions was written by Amy Barickman as a tribute to the pioneering work of Mary Brooks Picken and her Women's Institute of Domestic Arts and Sciences.  During her career Ms. Picken wrote almost 100 books and texts on sewing and fashion.  She also brought the growing movement for correspondence education into the purview of women with the Women's Institute, enabling many women to learn skills as dressmakers and milliners, which would allow them to work from home in these trades.

The book's subtitle is "An Inspirational Guide to Needlework, Cooking, Sewing Fashion and Fun".  True to these words, there's lots of inspiration here, particularly for those interested in the thirties as an era.  Many parts of the book are taken directly from the curriculum of the Women's Institute in the words of the teachers themselves.  Ms. Barickman has annotated these to provide insights on when a modern update might work better for today's reader.

While I wish the book were heavier on sewing, because that is my particular interest, there really are some great recipes, and some very timely perspectives on beauty and grooming which still apply today.  The book is arranged by seasons and has cute little pockets inside to hold other bits of inspiration like pictures or fabric swatches.  All in all, a fun book with lots to do and try.