Ooh-La-La: French Seams

I received a request from a reader to go into more detail on how to do the French seams I mentioned that I used on my Sorbetto blouse.  Today's post will do just that!

First align your pattern pieces with wrong sides together, and the right side out.  This is the opposite of what we are used to doing when making a regular seam.  Assuming you are using the standard 5/8ths inch seam allowance, sew the first seam using a 2/8ths (or 1/4 inch) seam allowance.

At this point, your seam is visible on the outside of the garment.  Next, trim to within 1/8th of an inch of the seam line.

Now turn your piece wrong side out, and press.

A second seam is now sewn, using a 3/8ths of an inch seam allowance.  The 2/8ths we used earlier, plus the 3/8ths taken now, add up to the traditional 5/8ths inch seam allowance.  Of course, all of these measurements can be changed if you are dealing with a different seam allowance.  French seams with tiny seam allowances are often used when sewing sheer fabrics as they prevent raveling and neaten the seam without adding bindings that can also add bulk.

Once this step is completed, so is your French seam!  French seams are useful, as described above with sheer fabrics, but also whenever you want to cover over the seam edges and don't want to use other seam finishes.  I've used them extensively when sewing long heavy skirts in period clothing like Medieval gowns and the like.

Thanks very much for sewing along!  If there are other techniques you'd like to see demonstrated, please feel free to comment and let me know!

Completed Project: No Money Down Sorbetto Top

Here's my completed blouse.  As planned, this blouse cost $0 to produce because I harvested the fabric from an old item that no longer fit me, made my own self fabric bias binding, and used thread I had on hand.  This top was very easy to make and I will definitely be making several of these, with various embellishments and alterations, to enhance my spring and summer wardrobe. Thanks again for looking at what I sew.

p.s.  Would you prefer to see me wear the things I make (when they're for me)?

Book Review:The Colette Sewing Handbook by Sarai Mitnick

Due to being a tad financially challenged this past year, I'm possibly the last person on earth to get a copy of the Colette Sewing Handbook. Actually, it's by serendipity that I was able to get it now. My son gave me a Barnes &Noble gift card the Yule before last and I found it, unspent, in a drawer the other day as I was doing some spring housecleaning. So, I decided to indulge one of my weaknesses and buy some books.

This book was well worth the wait! This is a beginner's dream sewing book because it not only shows techniques, but it allows you to sew along with the five included patterns and learn, or review, techniques as you go. The photography is terrific and shows the sewing details with the same clarity and quality that one finds on the Colette website.

Unlike other sewing books released recently, the patterns included with this book are lovely. Adaptable to many different figure types, they can be used as is for an elegant, classic wardrobe, or used as bases for more elaborate creations. Sarai Mitnick is a true inspiration. Her designs are timeless and enduring and can be worn by a variety of ages and figure types. I can't wait to make each of these patterns!

Sorbetto Progress

This blouse has been a dream to construct.  Above, I used a piece of tape (cute duct tape, huh?) as a seam guide for sewing in the center box pleat.  Inside I used french seams to keep those seams neat, this time without the added bulk of a binding.  Here's where my dart meets the side seam.

The most time consuming part of this blouse so far has been making the self fabric bias tape.  These's a tutorial for this right on the Collette Blog.  Because this was harvested fabric, I used my own method of finding the bias and cutting.

One thing that's apparent in these pictures is how dry and cracked my fingers are by this time in the winter!  Wow, it's a good thing spring is around the corner.  Well, hopefully I'll get this blouse finished in the next couple of days.  Thanks so much for stopping by!

To Pin or Not To Pin

I'm not referring to Pinterest. I mean, do you use pins? When and for what purposes?

According to many, many of the sewing goddesses I read and follow, one should use pattern weights and a rotary cutter when cutting fashion fabric. Pins can pull your fabric off grain and cause inaccuracies. That said, my personal preference is for pins over pattern weights. I find that I do a better job if my fabric is well pinned to the pattern. This is the way I learned way back in the day, so it's still the way I roll today!

And how about during construction? Do you baste, or pin? Again, back at South Junior High, I learned to pin my pieces together, carefully removing each pin as I went along so as not to sew over the pins. Sewing over pins is like sewing Russian roulette. You never know when you'll hit a pin and bend it, break your needle, or screw up the alignment of your needle housing. For very slippery fabrics I do baste and for some sturdier fabrics I can go pinless to speed up the sewing process.

Occasionally I come across cut patterns in my UFO pile with pins still intact where the pattern was pinned to the fabric. Sometimes moisture in the air has caused these pins to rust. Thankfully, I've not had to discard anything due to damage, but I try to recall these pieces when I'm tempted to put aside something I've cut in favor of another project.

To be optimally useful pins should be straight and free from surface problems like rust spots. Periodically, I go through my pins and repurpose or discard those that should no longer be used on good fabric. Also, I sort out bad ones as I sew.

"See a pin and pick it up, all the day you'll have good luck"! I guess that makes we sewists very, very lucky!

Beginning My Sorbetto

Today I began the process of sewing my Colette Patterns Sorbetto Top.  The image above is from the Colette Patterns blog, where you can download a free copy of this pattern to try yourself!  As I've said many times, "free" is one of my favorite words, second only to "love".  Not that I am opposed to supporting small businesses like Colette Patterns - how could I be, when I am such a business myself?  However, times are tight in my household (and many of yours), so I like to highlight freebies and frugalities whenever I can.

Once you've downloaded the pattern, it prints out, of course, as separate 8.5"x11" inch pieces of paper.  These need to be put in order and joined together, a lot like a jigsaw puzzle (but a beginner one - it wasn't hard at all!).

Then, once you've assembled your pieces, you can cut out the pattern in your chosen size, or trace it.  I chose to cut, yielding the two pattern pieces you see below.  This is a great pattern for beginners.  Two pieces, no closures.  What more could you ask for?

Tomorrow I'll be cutting the pattern.  I'm harvesting the fabric from an old peignoir set that has not fit me in years, but which I could not bear to part with.  Now the fabric will be put to good use!

The plan is to have a new blouse for no monetary outlay - free pattern, recycled fabric, notions on hand.  Please join me as I sew this simple but lovely little project!

Opinions Please

Recovery is proceeding nicely since my clumsy tumble down the stairs. The one good thing about it was that while elevating my foot, I was forced to watch Season 2 of Downton Abbey. I was held in thrall for many hours, and now I have to worry about the fate of cousin Brendan (it's a joke... Please see my maiden name) until Season 3 hits stateside :-(.

Now that I'm ready to resume sewing, I think my next project will be a blouse of some sort, possibly the lovely (and free) Colette Sorbetto. Then, in keeping with my pledge, it'll be back to the UFO pile to see what else awaits me there.

Aside from these plans, I've been wondering... Is there anything in particular that you'd like to see featured on these pages? A technique we could explore together, or a topic you haven't found covered elsewhere? Please comment and let me know!

Image credit: The Graphics Fairy